Last night Veronica (Nashville) had mentioned she and her friends were going on a 13-mile bike tour through Tuscany today. It sounded fun, so I joined in. We all walked to the pick-up point on one the bridges in Florence, where the guides met us and piled us into a couple vans. We then drove about 30km out of the city to some small villages. The drive was beautiful, and parts of it looked just like California.
Before starting the bike ride, we got a tour of a local Villa/vineyard, Castello di Poppiano, where a duke and duchess live! After the tour, we got samples of their wine (I hate wine, but I tried some and it was very good--mild, smooth, and not bitter or acidic at all) and their cold-pressed olive oil, which was delicious. It was dark green and tasted so fresh. 
Then we got our bikes and helmets (bleh, helmets!) and took off. The first bit was a steep incline and was a bit difficult. Then we had about an hour of downhill and flat sections, with extensive views of the rolling green vineyards and bristling silver olive groves. Our guides, Andy and Keith (Scottish and Irish, respectively), were a blast. They started the business (www.tuscany-biketours.com) about a year ago and said things have been going very well. Andy said he's able to work for the summer season, then travel each winter. Sounds nice!Halfway through the ride, we stopped for lunch (included in the price of the tour). I was expecting sandwiches from a cafe or something, but we got a full three-course meal and dessert! It started out with salad, then some bread with olive oil/vinegar, and fried polenta. Then we got our choice of pasta--I got the "ears" (I forget the Italian word, but that's what it's called) pasta with zucchini, tomato, and a light red sauce. Finally we got dessert and cappucino. The dessert was a delicious pear-and-chocolate tart. It was probably the best meal I'll have on this whole trip! Somehow we all managed to ride out bikes the remaining five miles after eating that lunch. At the end of the route there was a steep 900-meter climb. I gave it a good try, then had to get off my bike and walk. Actually, everyone had to get off and walk! It was so hot and humid, I was very tired and we were all sweating like crazy. At the bottom of the hill, five people had decided to hop in the van and get a ride up to the top. I wanted to try to incline, but I was starting to think that the ride might not have been such a bad idea. About two-thirds of the way up, the van circled back and I jumped in along with a couple others. I felt like I quit because I didn't finish the entire incline, but it was really difficult. We all took a break at the top for some water, which was very nice at that point. The rest of the ride back was nice, mostly downhill from that point. It felt so good to get some hardcore strenuous exercise in on this trip. I've been walking a lot every day, but I don't feel like it's enough.
When we were all back in Florence, Andy gave everyone hugs goodbye, which was very sweet. It was such a great experience and I loved getting out to the country and away from sight-seeing for a day.
June 15, 2007 -- Verona to Florence
On to Florence! Though lovely, Florence is just as hot and humid as Verona. My hostel is very big, with a terrace, gardens, and courtyard patio. I chilled on the terrace for a bit and read. I met a really cool girl from Toronto out there named Jackie, and another girl from Nashville named Veronica.
I was a bit hungry, so Jackie and I went in search of food. We had to go no further than the corner of our street where we got a couple of delicious salads. Salad!! It's been so long! After that, we walked around the city and went to the Duomo (a big cathedral). We didn't go inside, but we sat on the steps for a bit and watched everyone in the piazza. 
Just as we were discussing how nice it would be to find some good live music, a few guys with acoustic guitars and an upright bass started playing in front of the cathedral. It was folk-y, but upbeat and fun. We wandered around for a bit more, then bought some beer and hung out on the hostel's terrace with a big group of other travelers. A few of the girls started talking about getting harrassed by Italian guys (I haven't been yet, but after Morocco it doesn't seem too bad). We were formulating an effective gesture for driving them away and decided on a big "X" with the arms in front of the face in combination with a loud, "CHIUSO!" ("CLOSED!" in Italian). Two of the girls even made up a dance to go with it. I haven't laughed so hard in several weeks!
The hostel's walls are covered with paintings, drawings, and writing from its past guests. There was a hilarious drawing of David Hasselhoff, accompanied by the word "Hoffmosis." There was even a section of the wall dedicated to UC Berkeley (Grandma Gwen!)
June 14, 2007 -- Venice to Verona
I arrived in Verona today after a short train ride and it was HOT. And HUMID. In fact, it felt a lot like the D.C. area in August. I took a bus to my hotel, but accidentally got off too early. Half a mile later, I dragged my wilted carcass into the cool, clean marble-floored hotel lobby. As I was dripping with sweat, the concierge showed me some maps and outlined a good walking tour of Verona. We had a good laugh over the weather and he expressed his dislike for the sticky heat. I still felt disgusting and embarrassed, but he didn't seem to mind. When I had cooled down in my air conditioned room (yay!) for a bit, I caught the next bus to the city center. I started at the Castelvecchio (or something like that?), a large brick fortress spanning across the river.
Next I walked to the Arena. It used to be an important venue for gladiators, but now it's used for operas and concerts. It's made almost entirely of red and white marble. 
After that, I left the open and expansive Piazza Bra and made my way down one of the major shopping streets. Though I didn't care to go inside, I stopped by "Juliet's House," so named because of its balcony role in the "fair Verona" of Shakespeare's play. A small gateway led into the courtyard, the walls of which were covered with a spongy layer of gum and love notes. 
I read a few, and they mostly sounded like "Missed Connections" posts on Craig's List. If you've never read any, you should. They're nearly as funny as the "Casual Encounters" section. Both are excellent time-wasters/boredom killers!I spent the rest of the day wandering around and enjoying the city. It's busy, but not crowded and has many parks and gardens.
June 13, 2007 -- Venice
Venice is wonderful! Upon exiting the train station on the island, I had an immediate view of the main canal.
There were water buses, water taxis, gondolas and private boats zipping in between cargo barges and police boats, mail boats, even a laundry transport boat. The traffic is just as Italian as if they were driving cars and complements the calm old buildings with a lively hum.
I had to take care of business first, so I found an internet cafe to check my email and pay some bills. After devouring a sandwich I took the next ferry to Murano (yes, home of the famous glass! If you don't know, Google it.) Like the island grouping of Venice, Murano seems to subsist solely on tourism. I don't think I saw anything besides glass shops and the occasional cafe or gelato stand. I definitely ran into the souvenir problem again; there were beautiful millefiori creations, vases with swirling colors, metallic-looking sparkling plates, and loads of jewelry, but most everything was too heavy or too fragile to pack around with me for the next five weeks. I don't think I'll ship anything else home either, unless I absolutely have to. Still, it was very pleasant to walk around and window-shop.
When I got back to Venice, I made a quick trip inside the Basilica di San Marco,"Venice's crown jewel," or so says my Let's Go Europe! book. The lofty ceilings and cupolas are covered with golden tiles and detailed mosaics. This decor is an astute summation of Italians in general: flashy, bold and oppulent, but able to remain beautifully chic in a way no other culture can replicate. I walked back across the city, stopping here and there to absorb the sights. I had a cup of caffe macchiato (mmm, European coffee is the best!) and sat outside the cafe for about a half hour planning out a detailed itinerary for the rest of Italy. I've already had to pay a bit more for accommodations due to low availability, so it seems to me that in this country I should book far ahead of time.
With little bridges and canals everywhere, Venice feels quaint, but not in a Disneyland sort of way. It's definitely touristy, but not aggressively so. I sat down on a bench next to some old Italian ladies in a small square around a church. There were little kids running around and their parents were chatting on benches in the late afternoon sun. One father was helping his toddler daughter walk around, holding her hands up for support. Just as they reached the bench I was at, he let go of her hand and stood a few feet away, beckoning her to walk to him. The toddler wobbled for a minute as if her feet were glued to the floor. Finally, she took a few hurried steps forward into her dad's arms. All the old ladies clapped and said, "Brava! Bravissima!" One of them turned to me, smiling, and said something in Italian. I don't know what she said, but I understood anyway and smiled back. As the father and daughter were slowly walking away, the toddler looked back at us with a triumphant grin and let out a giggle. It was really neat to share in a family moment so far away from home. Things like that are universal.
June 12, 2007 -- Barcelona to Venice
Due to the comfy train beds, I woke up well-rested this morning. I did my best to freshen up, but since I'd slept in the shirt I was wearing all day and it had already been worn once, I smelled less than pleasant.
Upon arrival in BCN, Pam and I quickly grabbed a train to the airport. There were so many people heading that way that every square inch was jam-packed with luggage and travelers. There was also no air conditioning on the train, which quickly took on the characteristics of a well-functioning steam room. I felt so disgusting! We finally reached the airport and everyone poured out of the narrow doors, gulping in cool, fresh air. At that point, I said goodbye to Pam and wished her a safe flight home, as we were headed to different terminals. She was a good travelmate for the past few days; very easy-going and fun to talk to.
My flight to Venice didn't leave for a few hours, so I chilled in the terminal for a bit. After checking in, I took advantage of Barcelona Airport's fine selection of shops and decided if I was going to find a new book to read (in English!) then this would be the place. The bookstore had a small selection of English publications, which I quickly sifted through. However, the only books available were cheesy murder-mysteries, smut novels, or a combination of the two. I had no intention of spending money or time on any of those, so I bought the only other available title: The Da Vinci Code. While I enjoyed the movie, I have actively avoided reading this book, much less purchasing it. You see, when its popularity spiked a year or two ago, I don't think I could go a week without one of my friends or acquaintances insisting that it's "an a-MAZ-ing book," and "Oh my god, you just HAVE to read it!" My aversion to the book spawned not out of disinterest for the story, but out of my own stubborn self not wanting to do what I'm told. My mind works in such sensible ways, right? So I paid the 12 Euro for the paperback (ouch!) Now I'm on Chapter 5 and it really is a good book. The writing is not terribly enlightened, but the subject matter is quite interesting.
On the bus from the airport to my hotel I saw a Mexican restaurant and got to thinking, maybe I should try to eat Mexican food in every country. It would be cool to see how it's made all over the world!
When I finally rolled up to my hotel, the proprietor sat me down right away and told me how to get to central Venice (I'm on the main land, about a 10-minute train ride to the island) and back by bus or train. She even gave me a mini-map and showed me a coupleof restaurants nearby. I was starving, so I immediately set out and got a pizza. The owner of the restaurant, an Indian guy (dot, not feather, Lauren!), asked the usual questions: where am I from, where am I traveling? etc. Then he showed me a sort of guestbook he keeps that was filled with little comments from people around the world who have eaten at his restaurant. He also has a wall full of international currencies. I gave him my few remaining Moroccan dirham and signed his book. It was really cool!
When I got my pizza, I had been expecting a small personal-sized one, but it was big enough for three, and so cheap! I spent the rest of the evening doing laundry in the sink (I was almost out of clothes and underwear!). It was...interesting...but it worked. Sort of. My clothes stilll kind of smell. When I ran out room on my clothesline, I used my umbrella as a drying rack for underwear. Pretty high-tech, right? I'm thinking of applying for a patent.
June 11, 2007 -- Granada
The goal today was to get up early and go straight to the Alhambra, but both Pam and I were very tired. When we finally got there, we saw a forebodingly long line of people waiting to get in. We must have come at just the right time though, because it took us only a short wait to get in. It's funny when guidebooks tell you something will be very difficult, or you absolutely have to get reservations, then you get there and it's extremely easy.
First we saw the Nazaries Palace, which was room after courtyard after fountain after room of carved stone Arabian arches, Moroccan tiles, and perfectly manicured hedges, orange trees and bougainvillea. It was hot, but so beautiful and peaceful. 
After that, we got some lunch and wandered through the gardens. At one point, I sat down on a stone wall for some shade. Pam laid down close-by and soon enough we were both napping, listening to the people walk by and the lazy drone of bugs here and there. I woke up when I heard a tour group go by, the guide chuckling a little as he commented, "Ah, and here we have a siesta!"The last thing on the itinerary was to see the Alcazaba, the fortress and oldest part of the complex. Its towers allowed us stunning panoramic views of Granada and the surrounding valley. When we walked back to Granada, we found a tranquil terrace cafe for a drink and a snack. I tried Tinto de Verano, a juice/soda and wine mixture that is similar to sangria but very light and fruity.
Since Pam was flying home from Barcelona the next day, she had decided to take a night train there. I looked at all my available options for getting to southern France, (my next tentative destination) whether a train to Montpellier, a plane from Malaga to Toulouse, etc. Everything was either too expensive or took far too long. I then decided to make a change in plans and head to Italy. I found a flight from Barcelona to Venice for 50 Euros! After securing accommodations in Venice, everything was set.
At 9:45, Pam and I hopped on the night train to Barcelona. We paid the extra 20 Euros for couchette/sleeper beds (so worth it for the 12 hour ride). The train was really nice! After stowing our bags and getting somewhat acquainted with the old Spanish lady in our room and her husband in the next, we checked out the dining car. There was a bar/cafe car and a separate full restaurant car with cute little tables. So cool! I felt like I was in some old Hollywood glamour movie; for some reason train rides hold this sophisticated and old-fashioned novelty in my mind. While Pam and I were having drinks I spotted a couple at the end of the bar that I had been chatting with at the Alhambra. They're from Berkeley and are nearly done with three weeks all over Spain. How funny to run into them again! I said hello and talked with them a bit more, then Pam and I decided to get a snack in the restaurant car. We'd been looking everywhere for a good cheese plate, but had yet to find one. Sure enough, that was the first thing on the menu--Manchega, farmer's cheese, Camembert and some quince jelly. It was so good! (On a side note, I feel like all I write about is food. I can't help it though, I'm trying so mnay new things!)
Before we all turned in for the night, the lady in our room showed us pictures of her kids and grandkids. In my broken Spanish I told her about my niece Kyra and her beautiful curly hair. The lady was so happy to talk about family; I bet she's an awesome Grandma!
June 10, 2007 -- Tarifa to Granada
Today Pam and I caught a bus to Algeciras, then a train to Granada. Granada is quite nice--it's a large city with plenty of classically European narrow cobblestone alleys and passageways. We took a bus up the hill to the Albaizin, which is the remainder of the Arab quarter and the center of the old city. We could look across the small valley to the Alhambra, its camel-colored stones rising up in organic harmony with the thick forests surrounding it. At sunset, little bits of snow clinging to the mountains in the distance glowed pink and the towers of the Alhambra responded with an amber luminescence. To be able to look down on the city below and across the valley to the next high mountain range was very peaceful. I had one of those moments where I slowed down and thought, "Wow, I'm in Spain!!" because you don't always realize where you really are when traveling.
Walking down from the Albaizin, Pam and I got a little lost in the tangled maze of narrow streets, but it allowed us to see much of the neighborhood. We even passed by a Moroccan restaurant, complete with cushions on the floor. It looked better than any place I saw in Morocco! When we finally found our way back to the main thoroughfare, we got some delicious gelato.
June 9, 2007 -- Tarifa
This morning I woke up and went straight to the beach again (this time with plenty of sunblock on) for a quick swim. The surf was a little rougher than yesterday and I bodysurfed for a bit. The waves were small, maybe surfable, but not worth paying to rent a board. Tarifa, like California, gets much better surf in the winter and hardly anything in the summer. After the beach, I hung around the hostel and caught up on some emails and my blog, which took forever. I hope you people appreciate all the time I'm putting into typing up my journal and uploading pictures! ;-) When I walked into town, I stopped by a sandwich shop that looked...different. It had several creamy-looking sandwich spreads and some meats. I went for it and got a sandwich with chicken, provolone, mushrooms and this garlicky red sauce on delicious baguette bread and it was amazing. I really made a point to just relax today, so I took a little siesta. Yay for Spain and afternoon naps! Around 9:00 I met up with Pam and Marie, two women from the hostel, and we went out for tapas. At the first place they montaditos (little sandwiches) in several varieties. I got one with smoked salmon and queso fresco and it reminded me of home! Next, we popped next door (the place was packed with people watching the football game) for some delicious patatas bravas. And so it went until midnight or so, when we made our way back to the hostel. I was tired, so I went to bed soon after, but Pam and Marie joined up with others in the hostel and stayed out until 6:00am!
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